Penngrove retains country charm

(Editor’s note: This is one in a series of monthly stories taking a close-up look at neighborhoods in Petaluma.)

While growing up in Penngrove in the 1970s, Denise Hawley habitually rode her horse to the downtown post office to pick up mail.

“We used to let our dog out to run around, too, because there was no traffic,” said Hawley, a resident of Brand Lane who has lived in Penngrove for 42 years.

During succeeding decades, more homes have been built, additional businesses have opened and traffic has increased. Many residents of the downtown Penngrove area aren’t entirely happy with the growth, but they still enjoy living there.

“You used to be able to ride your horses around the neighborhood, but you can’t do that anymore because there’s too much traffic,” said Linda Moretti, who has lived on Dutch Lane for the past 37 years. “We used to have more farms and chickens, but now a lot of the people who live here commute to work somewhere else.

“I like the neighborhood, but it’s not the same.”

Penngrove originally was the home of the Coast Miwok tribe, and the first Caucasian settlers in the area were David Wharff, W.J. Hardin and J.M. Palmer, who arrived in 1852. Located in the remnants of a historic grove called “Penn’s Grove” (allegedly named after two brothers with the surname Penn who came to live in the area, or after a former town in New Jersey with the same name), the town had a freight rail station on the Northwestern Pacific Railroad line, and like neighboring Petaluma, was a center for egg and chicken farming.

After the turn of the 20th century, Penngrove became the second largest egg- and poultry-producing area in the country, trailing only Petaluma.

The downtown area of Penngrove recently has experienced a growth spurt. Since 1990, the population has climbed 13.7 percent, from 284 to 331, and the number of households has risen 18.9 percent, from 106 to 131. Still, 25.1 percent of the housing units were built before 1940.

Anthony Tusler, who has lived with wife Lyndi Brown on Oak Street for the past 14 years, feels says that despite the growth, the downtown area “has maintained its charm.”

“I was very glad to find a place in Penngrove. I like the fact that we have a little town here,” he said.

Several residents noted that much of downtown Penngrove’s growth has occurred during the past few years.

“Traffic has increased, although there’s not much we can do about it,” said Hannelore Evans, who has lived on Oak Street with her husband, Charles, for 12 years. “There are more homes, bigger homes and more expensive homes, and a little downtown mall, too. But the area still has a rural setting and a homey feel, and the downtown area has such a variety! This has become a self-sufficient community.

“And if we ever want to go to a bigger city, Petaluma and Santa Rosa are nearby.”

“The biggest problem we have isn’t with traffic from the people living in the neighborhood: It’s with Penngrove being used as a thoroughfare,” said Lois Standring, who has lived on Oak Street with husband Robert for 21 years. “It’s crazy at commute times, when drivers take Petaluma Hill Road up to Rohnert Park and Santa Rosa.”

Brown says that residents have had several meetings about Sonoma County’s General Plan, and have discussed proposals to address the traffic problem.

“The only thing we want is to have (Main Street/Petaluma Hill Road) widened or for people to drive more slowly,” she said, noting that a few weeks ago, the owner of a downtown business obtained a sign saying, “State law: Yield to Pedestrians Within Crosswalk.”

“A fireman put it up, and it’s made a difference,” she said.

Several residents still are particularly concerned about children’s safety downtown, though.

“I’m a little nervous about children crossing the street, because of the downtown traffic,” said Cindy Tuck, who has lived on Oak Street with her husband, Jim, and four children — including triplets — since 1996.

Despite the increasing street congestion, residents continue to enjoy the natural beauty of the area.

“This still feels like the country to us,” Tuck said. “We live on one-third of an acre, and have three dogs, three cats and a horse — and we used to have a cow.

“With the rolling hills around us and great weather, it can’t get much better than this.”

Hawley claims the area also has an unmistakably unique odor.

“Penngrove has a certain smell — maybe it’s the hay, or maybe it’s the fog — that’s just so sweet,” she said.

When her son recently returned from Oklahoma to visit, Hawley found him sitting on the porch, and asked him what he was doing.

“Smelling Penngrove,” he said.

Some residents praised the cohesiveness of the neighborhood.

“I like the country feel of the neighborhood, and feel close to a lot of my neighbors. I know that I always have a place to go to if I need help,” Evans said.

“People here do a lot of walking, and see each other in places such as the post office and grocery store. We know each other, and watch out for each other,” Evans said, adding that one of her neighbors, Brown, keeps people informed via a neighborhood online watch group that she formed.

“We probably have about 40 households on our watch list,” Brown said.

“The watch group also helped us to get to know the people who aren’t immediately around us,” Tusler added.

Brown says her job is facilitated by the friendliness of the residents.

“People mix freely, and know each other. Actually, the post office is the unofficial heartbeat of the area. The people there know what’s happening with everybody,” she said.

Brown says that several families became closer after mutually assisting a neighbor who was dying of leukemia.

“We all supported her, and this brought us together and galvanized us,” she said.

The neighborhood also is united through Penngrove Elementary School, part of the Old Adobe Union School District. In 1876, Eagle School was built on the southwest corner of Adobe Road and Main Street, and was named after the Eagle Hotel located nearby.

Thirty years later, another Eagle School was built there and in 1926, the mission-style Penngrove School, part of the Eagle District, was erected. The school became part of Petaluma City School District in 1962.

The school’s students always are among the most enthusiastic participants and observers of the town’s biggest event — the Penn-grove Parade. On the Fourth of July each year, residents and visitors alike gather for the parade, dubbed “The biggest little parade in Northern California.”

“The town is usually packed,” Tuck said. “Tons of people come, and it gets bigger every year. What’s unique about the parade is that the people here really get involved. Many Penngrove businesses have floats — and I don’t think that any other parade has as many tractors in it!

“Afterward, everyone goes to Penngrove Community Park for a barbecue (provided by the Penngrove Social Firemen).”

Each year, a recording of “The Star-Spangled Banner” is played before the parade begins, but in 2003, the sound system didn’t work. As observers and participants patiently waited, Willie Jordan, an African-American cook from the Black Cat Bar & Cafe, came out, still wearing his apron.

He climbed up on the reviewing stand, grabbed the microphone and performed a stirring a cappella version of the song that brought some people to tears. Most of the crowd had no idea that he was a talented singer and drummer who played in two bands.

“This really showed the diversity of the town, and how we all live here together,” Tusler said.

Moretti rode with her husband in the first Penngrove parade, in 1978. The parade has become much larger, and she now serves as a judge.

“It’s still fun, but it’s a lot different,” Moretti said.

The community also enjoys block parties and park gatherings.

Penngrove Community Park, funded by the Penngrove Social Firemen and the local community, was dedicated on Oct. 8, 1952. The following year, Penngrove’s Maple Leaf Club planted maple trees there.

“Our home overlooks the park and gazebo. If the weather there’s a party just about every weekend day,” Brown said.

“We live right next to the park, and during the summer there are a lot of ethnic events, including a German festival, Hispanic weddings and a Swiss picnic,” Tuck said.

“A lot of music is played in the park,” Brown added. “If you like what they’re playing, it’s like a free concert. If you don’t, you go to the movies.”

(Contact Dan Johnson at dan.johnson@arguscourier.com. Corey Young and John Jackson contributed to this article.)