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For dessert, I recommend the chocolate-peanut butter ladyfingers with stewed strawberries and a glass of brachetto Italian red sparkling.

On Sunday evening, I am coursing the pleasantry of Bodega Avenue, longing westward, again. My destination is a lovely little establishment in Valley Ford named Rocker Oysterfeller?s. I am hungry and when I pull in the place is packed. I forget that Sunday night is music night and the deep, soft sounds of the Bluebellies echoes through the creaks and seams of this eclectic old hotel as I walk up to the front porch.

The staff greets me warmly and I start with a deep-fried calamari appetizer with jalapenos and a nice, creamy, spicy Tabasco aioli. It is piled high and delicious. Their use of a light oil makes this plate easy to pick away. With it, I sip a Sierra foothills viognier from Stark Cellars. The subtle sweet in the dry viognier arcs wonderfully in my mouth against the jalapeno. The acidity in the wine seems to puree the calamari like the favorite dish of Charlotte in her web.

For the main course, I strap on the snorkel and dive into their scallop plate. It is a treat for any land lover or scuba aficionado, anytime.

Big scallops with a nice touch of spice pan-fried in butter and leaned on a mountain of wine-soaked stuffing with seared baby red and white onions and sweet glazed walnuts. The stuffing is moist and with its occupancy on my fork, I negotiate a bite of scallop alongside and it is, oh, let me say, ?delicious.? Here, I will coin the phrase, ?Less drama, more Dahlia Lama.? This term came to my mind as I feel we should all be so lucky to take this time to find inner peace at Rocker Oysterfeller?s one lazy Sunday just as I am. It is terrific; the food, spectacular. The employees are very kind and it reminds me of a time when, once, everyone around me was this laid-back and happy.

This sums up my local southern coast tour of Sonoma County. Get out there and enjoy ? at least try to once a month. No economy will turn around unless we make it move.

(Jason Jenkins is the owner of Vine and Barrel, a wine shop at 143 Kentucky St. He offers Wednesday night wine education classes from 6 to 8 p.m. and Saturday tastings from 4 to 7 p.m. He can be contacted at 765-1112. The Web site is www.vineand barrel.com)

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