Artisan cheese making is alive and well in Petaluma

  • Elizabeth Pacheco checks the cheese aging room. Achadinha Cheese Company uses natural refridgeration in this room by leaving the windows open at night and then sealing the cool air in during the day.

March is the beginning of spring, bringing newborn dairy cows, sheep and goats and the fresh local milk and cheese that goes along with them.

In Sonoma and Marin counties there are thousands of acres of dairy land dedicated to making cheese; Petaluma and the surrounding valleys are home to several award winning artisan cheese producers.

Some, like Two Rock Valley Goat Cheese and Achadinha Cheese Company, are long-term dairy farming families who have turned to cheese making. Others, like Weirauch Farm & Creamery, are new to the dairy industry, emerging as entrepreneurs to meet a growing demand for quality, local cheese.

Don DeBernardi, 74, has owned a dairy in the Two Rock Valley since 1976 and maintains a herd of 700 cows that produce certified organic milk. But for the past seven years, he has concentrated his energy on the production of raw goat cheeses.

What began as a gift of two goats to his grandchildren 15 years ago has become a herd of more than 115 Nubian and Boer goats, which now produces enough milk to sustain the production of 15-20 wheels of raw goat cheese every week.

Don's wife Bonnie sees to the management and milking of the goat herd, with the help of her grandchildren. She hand raises the goats so that they are easy to handle later when they are milk producers. This year she estimates that there are about 50 new kids to rear, and 38 does that produce the milk used in cheese processing.

Don learned about making cheese when he and Bonnie took a trip to visit relatives in Switzerland. It was there that he acquired the knowledge and tools necessary to start the new venture.

He now makes a Swiss-styled raw milk goat cheese year round and a limited amount of goat milk Brie. He jokingly refers to his cheese shed as the smallest in the state, but he manages to maintain two large shipping container-sized coolers of ripening cheeses.

Achadinha Cheese Company is located to the south, in the scenic Chileno Valley. It too started with a herd of dairy cows, but in 1997 changed over to goats. Realizing that there was not enough of a market for goat milk alone, the owners progressed to making goat cheeses. They now maintain a herd of 600 goats, and recently added back 50 Jersey cows to produce blended goat and cow milk cheeses during the winter months when the goats are not as productive.

Neither Jim Pacheco, who is a third generation dairyman, nor his wife Donna, who was raised in an air force family, had any real knowledge of cheese making when they started. Donna's father-in-law, who had emigrated to the U.S. from Achadinha, Portugal, had family that had made cheese.

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