As his first batch of American red rye ale fermented, brewmaster Joel Johnson released a steady stream of yeasty slush from the vast fermentation tank, watching as it settled into a smooth, muddy clump on the brewery floor.
"To me, it looks beautiful," said Johnson, brewmaster at 101 North Brewing Co. in Petaluma. "The way it's stacking is a really good sign. It means the yeast is healthy and alive. It smells like bread, not dead animals."
A mix of passion and grit permeate the culture of 101 North, a brewery that released its first kegs of beer in August and its first bottles of "Heroine IPA" last month. This week, it released its fourth beer, "Stigmata Red Rye."
The name of the brewery, thought up at the last minute late one night over beers, puts 101 North squarely in the heart of Northern California's booming craft beer scene. The 9-month-old brewery is one of the latest to emerge in Sonoma County, where at least 18 craft brewers have bubbled up in a region better known for its fine wine.
Opening a brewery was a dream 20 years in the making for the six Sonoma County brothers and friends, most of whom went to Cardinal Newman High School together in the late 1980s. Joel's brother Jake, class of '89, handles finance and business. John Lillenthal, who graduated the same year, handles sales in Sonoma and Napa counties. John "JB" Brainin is a sales manager in San Francisco.