Predictions of rain are beginning. The water won’t be enough yet to do much for our ongoing drought, but it could be enough to send the year’s last tomatoes back into the ground. I look forward to any and all of it and to its accompanying petrichor, that wonderful aroma that comes with the first rains after a period of dry heat. Even though we’ve already had rain this season, the heatwave since will make the next rains smell like the season’s first.
Still, I’m hoping for a few more weeks of dead ripe, juicy tomatoes, the kind that practically turn themselves into sauce. We have enough micro climates in Sonoma County that it could happen; several farmers have told me they expect to have tomatoes until the middle of November.
Late tomatoes need different handling than early and mid-summer tomatoes. They are better in soups and sauces than in salads, as they no longer have that pert yet tender firmness of tomatoes earlier in the season. Even so, late summer tomato salads are not to be eschewed. Add some burrata, olive oil and the last of the basil and you have a simple feast, best enjoyed with hot hearth bread and chilled dry rosé at sunset.
Now is a great time to make salsa and sauces to enjoy on the spot and to can or freeze. It’s also a perfect time to make oven-roasted tomatoes.
Today’s recipes are for the dishes I hope to make before tomatoes are entirely gone for the year. I’ll also have one last BLT before the season is over.
This dish is inspired by one in Unplugged Kitchen (Morrow, 1996) by Viana LaPlace, which is a beautiful study in grace, simplicity and deliciousness. Her recipe calls for rice topped with a little lemon juice, olive oil and black pepper. This one is nearly as simple.
Hot Rice with Cool Tomatoes
Serves 2 to 4
? cup Italian or Spanish rice
- Kosher salt
1 large beefsteak tomato, cored and chopped
1 garlic clove, minced
½ lemon
- Extra virgin olive oil
- Black pepper in a mill
- Chopped fresh Italian parsley or snipped chives, optional
Put the rice into a medium saucepan, add a few generous pinches of salt and enough water to cover it by a good 3 inches. Bring to a boil over high heat, reduce the heat to medium and cook until the rice is just done but still with some resistance at its center; it will take about 12 to 14 minutes.
While the rice cooks, put the chopped tomato into a bowl, add the garlic and lemon juice, season to taste with salt and set aside.
When the rice is ready, drain it and divide among soup plates or pasta bowls. Top with the tomato and its juices, drizzle with olive oil, season with several generous turns of black pepper and scatter with herbs, if using.
Enjoy immediately.
This is a rather messy sandwich, so be prepared for lots of dripping and oozing out the sides. If such a mess troubles you, simply serve the sandwiches open-faced.
Roasted Tomato Sandwich
Serves 4 to 6
4 large or 8 medium garden tomatoes, ripe or very ripe
1 tablespoon extra-virgin olive oil
3 cloves garlic
1 fresh sourdough baguette, cut into four pieces, each split in half
- Flake salt
- Black pepper in a mill
- Handful of basil leaves, thinly sliced, or 2 tablespoons snipped chives
Roast the tomatoes several hours before using so that they have time to cool. To do so, preheat the oven to 300 degrees. Peel the tomatoes, cut off the stem ends and place them in a shallow baking dish. Drizzle the olive oil over the tomatoes and turn to coat them. Bake until the tomatoes are very soft and beginning to brown, about 40 minutes. Drain off any juices that form every 20 minutes or so (save them for soup, stock or vinaigrette), so that the tomatoes roast nearly dry rather than stew in their juices. Remove them from the oven, allow them to cool, and refrigerate, covered, until ready to use.
To assemble the sandwiches, toast, grill, or broil the baguette until golden and slightly crisp.
Spread several spoonfuls of the roasted tomatoes on the bottom piece of the bread, pressing it in as much as possible. Season with salt and pepper, scatter the basil or chives on top and add the top half of the bread.
Variations
Before adding the tomato, rub both pieces of toasted bread with several cut cloves of garlic.
Toss the tomatoes with a minced jalapeño or serrano pepper before roasting them. Top with cilantro instead of basil or chives.
Th is rich, savory pudding is excellent alongside simply roasted chicken. It also makes a nice dinner on a busy night. However you serve it, be sure to add a big green salad and a vegetable dish - steamed spinach, green beans or broccoli, for example - alongside.
Tomato Bread Pudding
Serves 6 to 8
5 or 6 bacon slices
4 cups sourdough hearth bread of choice, torn into bite-sized pieces
3 dead-ripe tomatoes, cored and chopped
½ cup chopped fresh Italian parsley leaves
3 ounces grated cheese, such as Gruyere, Fontina, Parmigiano-Reggiano or dry Jack
3 farm eggs, beaten
2 cups whole milk
½ cup heavy cream
2 tablespoons double-concentrated tomato paste
3 garlic cloves, pressed
- Kosher salt
- Black pepper in a mill
Fry the bacon until it is crisp and transfer it to absorbent paper to drain.
Put the bread into a large mixing bowl and drizzle the bacon drippings over it. Toss to distribute evenly.
Add the tomatoes, parsley and cheese, toss well, and season with salt and several generous turns of black pepper. Set aside.
Combine the eggs, milk, cream, tomato paste and pressed garlic and whisk until smooth. Season with salt and pepper.
Tip the bread mixture into a baking dish, such as a 2-quart soufflé dish. Pour the custard over it, agitate the dish gently to distribute it evenly, cover the aluminum foil and set aside.
Preheat the oven to 325 degrees and set the bread pudding on the middle rack of the oven. Cook for 15 minutes, increase the heat to 425 degrees and cook for 10 to 15 minutes more, until the top is puffed up and lightly browned.
Remove from the oven and let rest for 10 to 15 minutes before serving.
Michele Anna Jordan has written 17 books to date, including “Vinaigrettes and Other Dressings.” You’ll find her blog, “Eat This Now,” at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com. Email Jordan at michele@saladdresser.com
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