From ag roots, Petaluman grew vineyard

Petaluman Paul Clary spent his weekends on his grandparent’s El Dorado County ranch as he was growing up, harvesting walnuts and learning to drive a tractor by the time he was 12.

When the 57-year-old bought a ranch in Petaluma nearly two decades ago, it seemed natural for him to tap into his agricultural background and try his hand at cultivating wine grapes.

“The old cattle ranch had been abandoned for about 25 years. The barns were falling down, so we took the cattle off and planted 15 acres of vineyard,” said Clary, who holds a biological sciences degree with an emphasis in botany, from UC Davis and has studied wine grape viticulture and wine making.

He began making wine in 2001 to show off his Pinot Noir and Syrah grapes to wine makers, with his first batch of wines snagging medals at the 2003 Sonoma County Harvest Fair. The following year, he used excess grapes to make his own wine, which earned a top recognition from a wine publication.

“That was an emotional moment for me, validating what I had been doing,” he said.

Now, his Clary Ranch Wines, produced from his grapes grown in the emerging Petaluma Gap region, have made their way into restaurants in Petaluma and across the state, he said.

He cites Abe Remas, a teacher of meditation, as a source of inspiration and also credits “godfather of Sonoma County viticulture” Rich Thomas and UC Davis’ agriculture extension farm adviser Ernie Sarinias for their imparted wisdom about the wine grape growing business.

Before he launched into wine making, Clary worked in construction. He apprenticed with builder and financial guru Richard Zillman in San Francisco, who he credits with teaching him the tricks and tools of the trade.

While he’s built his wine business, he’s also utilized his knowledge of construction to take a job as a building inspector in Marin County.

“It was a big help; I was able to use my building expertise to provide for my family and help others,” he said. “If your building doesn’t fall down, if it doesn’t shock you, poison you or drown you, that’s my goal as a building inspector –to make sure people are safe in their homes.”

He’s also volunteered in his community as a Boy Scouts assistant scout master and as the former president of Petaluma Gap Winegrowers Alliance.

Music also appeals to Clary, who plays keyboards, guitars and has been known to write a song or two.

“I play mostly with friends and I do love to sing,” he said adding that while he was president of the Petaluma Gap Winegrowers Alliance, he began singing instead of speaking at group functions.

Clary has seen his last child off to college this month and while he is definitely feeling the “empty nest syndrome,” he called himself fortunate, saying he’s enjoyed “building the ranch and my kids.”

“Look how well they turned out,” he said. “I feel so fortunate that they are all doing well.” (Contact Lynn Schnitzer at argus@arguscourier.com)