Pantry: Pleasures of the pomegranate

A few days ago, I had my first pomegranate of the year, and it was so extraordinary that I was transported back to all the other wonderful pomegranates I’ve enjoyed since I first discovered them.|

A few days ago, I had my first pomegranate of the year, and it was so extraordinary that I was transported back to all the other wonderful pomegranates I’ve enjoyed since I first discovered them. I was 5 years old and dressed as an angel, with silver shoes, silver wings and a halo suspended by a nearly invisible wire above my strawberry blonde curls. When I knocked on the door of a neighbor and spoke the obligatory words - “Trick or treat!” - a man I didn’t know dropped a big, round, red thing that I did not recognize into my bag.

Later, I found it hidden on top of the refrigerator and managed to open it without a knife. Thus began my lifelong love affair with the fruit of Persephone, much to my mother’s chagrin and to the detriment of many pieces of clothing over the years.

It’s all been worth it. These days, it’s my aprons and my cutting boards that have most of the stains. And my fingers.

This year’s first pomegranate was so sweet that the vinaigrette dressing I was making did not need a pinch of sugar, an adjustment that is necessary when the juice is tart. I tossed it with fresh salad greens, put some egg salad on top of the greens, added a dollop of Chermoula, a Moroccan condiment similar to Argentine Chimichurri, and then scattered a few pomegranates over everything for a simple fall feast.

As soon as it was gone, I wanted more.

Now is the time to enjoy pomegranates. They’ve been at our farmers markets and local supermarkets for a few weeks and we’ll continue to see them for a while. They are delicious in simple greens salads, in slaws, with sliced avocados and persimmons, with rare lamb, in grain salads - especially wild rice, quinoa and farro - and scattered over freshly made hummus. A few dropped into a flute of sparkling wine adds a festive flourish, and they also are delicious with almost any selection of cheeses.

When buying pomegranates, choose fruit that seems heavy for its size, that has heft in your hand and that has just a bit of give when you press on it. That’s no guarantee it will be perfect but these guidelines help. And don’t be surprised if the arils are pale pink or almost white. There are white pomegranates that are not the same as unripe red pomegranates. It can be hard to tell them apart, and white ones are not always labeled, so be sure to taste the fruit instead of jumping to conclusions based on color.

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The secret to making a successful slaw with fennel, celery and radishes is to slice the ingredients as thinly as possible. To accomplish this you need a very sharp knife. If you don’t have one handy, use a mandoline or the thinnest slicing blade of a food processor.

Fennel, Celery and Radish Slaw with Pomegranate Vinaigrette & Fresh Pomegranates

Serves 4 to 6

2 to 3 medium fennel bulbs, trimmed

4 or 5 celery stalks, trimmed and cut into very thin diagonal slices

1 bunch radishes, trimmed and cut into very thin rounds

1 small red onion, trimmed and cut into very thin half-rounds

- Kosher salt

- Black pepper in a mill

- Pomegranate Vinaigrette (recipe follows)

? cup fresh pomegranate arils

Cut the fennel bulbs in half lengthwise and then cut each piece into very thin crosswise slices; put in a medium bowl. Add the celery, radishes and red onion and toss very gently.

Season lightly with salt and several turns of black pepper and set aside for a few minutes.

Make the vinaigrette, drizzle it over the slaw, toss, transfer to a serving bowl, top with the pomegranate arils and serve.

Variations

Add 2 to 3 ounces crumbled feta cheese along with the vinaigrette.

Add ? cup chopped fresh cilantro or Italian parsley after adding the dressing. Toss and add the pomegranate arils.

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Pomegranate Vinaigrette

Makes about ? cup

1 small shallot, minced

- Kosher salt

2 tablespoons white wine vinegar, apple cider vinegar or pomegranate vinegar

2 tablespoons freshly-squeezed pomegranate juice

- Black pepper in a mill

½ cup extra virgin olive oil

Put the shallot into a small Mason jar, season with salt and add the vinegar. Set aside for a few minutes. Add the juice, season with black pepper, add the olive oil, close the jar and shake. Taste and correct for salt and acid balance.

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This coleslaw is mildly spicy, slightly sweet and delightfully tart, perfect on a hot October night. It is an excellent starter or side dish with either posole rojo or posole verde and is also good in simple tacos.

Mexican-Inspired Coleslaw

Serves 4 to 6

5 cups (about 1 pound) thinly shredded cabbage, preferably savoy cabbage

1 red onion, trimmed and cut into very thin half rounds

1 fresh fennel bulb, trimmed and very thinly sliced

10 to 12 small French breakfast radishes, cut in very thin diagonal slices

½ jalapeño or serrano pepper, seeded and very thinly sliced

- Juice of 1 lime, plus more as needed

2 tablespoons rice vinegar

1 teaspoon sugar

- Kosher salt

? cup extra virgin olive oil, plus more as needed

½ cup fresh cilantro leaves, torn or chopped

- Black pepper in a mill

1 or 2 firm-ripe avocados, halved

½ cup fresh pomegranate arils

- Lime wedges

Put the shredded cabbage into a large bowl, add the onion, fennel, radishes and jalapeño or serrano and toss gently. Set aside.

Put the lime juice, rice vinegar, sugar and several pinches of salt into a small bowl. Agitate the bowl to dissolve the sugar and salt. Stir in the olive oil. Taste and correct for acid balance and salt.

Pour the dressing over the vegetable mixture and use 2 large forks to toss thoroughly. Add the cilantro, season generously with black pepper, cover and set aside for 30 minutes.

To finish the salad, remove the avocado pits and use the tip of a sharp knife to cut the avocados into thin, lengthwise slices, cutting to but not through the skin. Use a large spoon to scoop out the avocado flesh from 2 of the halves, add it to the salad along with all but a tablespoon or so of the pomegranate arils and toss very gently. Transfer the salad to a serving bowl or platter.

Scoop out the flesh of the 2 remaining avocado halves and arrange the slices on top of the salad. Squeeze a little lime juice over the avocado, season with salt and pepper, scatter the remaining pomegranate on top and serve.

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Traditional gremolata is a mixture of Italian parsley, raw garlic and lemon zest, typically used in such dishes as osso buco. This version is delicious scattered over sliced leg of lamb, braised lamb shanks, enchiladas, tamales, quesadillas, queso fundido and many other dishes.

Pomegranate Gremolata

Makes about 1 ½ cups

1 shallot, minced

- Zest of 1 lime

- Juice of 1 lime

- Kosher salt

4 tablespoons chopped fresh Italian parsley

2 tablespoon chopped fresh spearmint leaves

2 tablespoons chopped fresh cilantro

- Arils from 1 ripe pomegranate

Put the shallot into a medium bowl, add the lime zest and juice, season with salt and set aside for a few minutes.

Add the parsley, mint and cilantro and toss gently. Add the pomegranate arils, toss again, taste and correct for salt and acid.

Use as a condiment. Stored in the refrigerator, it will last for up to 2 or 3 days, though it is best used within a day.

Michele Anna Jordan has written 17 books to date, including “Vinaigrettes and Other Dressings.” You’ll find her blog, “Eat This Now,” at pantry.blogs.pressdemocrat.com. Email Jordan at michele@saladdresser.com.

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