The Secret Kitchen’s secret is out

If you’ve driven out Bodega Avenue from Petaluma recently, you may not have even noticed the tiny new take-out/dine-outdoors phenomenon known as the Secret Kitchen. But some secrets are too flavorful not to share. Chef-owner Brenda Anderson’s heartfelt attention to details, innovative flavor, and friendly down-home ambiance has set Petaluma quick cuisine ablaze, covert moniker or not.

Tucked behind Agius Market (at the corner of Bodega Avenue and Eucalyptus/Skillman) the exterior blue and neon green paint is nearly as bold as Anderson’s unique menu, and is easy to find once you know where to look. But don’t think of the drive west of downtown as an inconvenience. Think of it as a 5-to-7 minute “farm-to-fork” food tour as you drive past the very farms, fields, bakeries and meat purveyors where Anderson sources seasonal ingredients that make up the dynamic menu. Spend a few minutes talking with Anderson and you will learn that she isn’t simply selling a product. She genuinely wants to make sure we all have access to healthy, filling and unforgettable meals.

Over time, we have sampled just about everything on the Secret Kitchen’s menu. I always find a Bánh mì (a Vietnamese po-boy) to be the perfect litmus test for determining a chef’s familiarity with Asian ingredients. This one rivals the best I’ve had. Other favorites were the Citrus-ey Pork and Korean barbecue Chicken tacos and the American Hog in a Blanket (Caggiano Brat topped with Lagunitas mustard, house made cheese sauce and Sonoma Brinery pickles).

Anderson’s black bean tamales with a cilantro cream sauce are hard to beat, and go down perfectly with her sweet teas and cold coffee drinks. If you can catch them on special, don’t miss the Pupusa (a Salvadoran grilled cheese sandwich, of sorts). And sweet-tooths don’t despair - the caramel rum cake is divine. I’ve driven out just for “zert” (dessert) on more than one occasion.

Anderson’s penchant for combining complex flavors is firmly based in the cultural and culinary roots of her childhood. Although raised in San Diego her comfort zone has some unexpected twists. As was common on the West Coast immediately following World War II, her Japanese mother could only find work in Asian businesses so Anderson spent much of her childhood helping her mother in Chinese restaurants.

Additionally, living so close to the border meant her babysitters were mostly Mexican, infusing her developing palette with a love of Latin spices and seasonings.

Chef Anderson’s flare for fusion cuisine was further enhanced by world travel and her time teaching at the Culinary Institute of American (known as the CIA and from which her daughter cunningly came up with the name “Secret Kitchen,” get it?), the California Culinary Academy, and a stint running Long Life Café on Google’s Mountain View campus. Her attention to culinary, dietary and cultural details, coupled with innovative twists on traditional international dishes, won her critical acclaim with Google’s local and international engineers. The lines for Anderson’s food were so long that it was affectionately nicknamed “Long Line Café.”

Seating is simple and communal with picnic tables spread outside around the service window. Relax at a table while waiting for your order and you will meet an incredible cross section of fellow food lovers. From farmers and ranchers to out-of-town food tourists to local Coast Guard personnel, Anderson’s guests seem to share a friendly and passionate interest in her cross-cultural creations. (Secret Kitchen offers military discounts.)

A Secret Kitchen food truck is currently in the works. Production is in the able hands of Anderson’s husband, John LaNoue, who is internationally known for building famous replica aircraft such as the World War I Vickers Vimy biplane and the Spirit of St. Louis 2. With years of experience in set construction at Industrial Light and Magic, LaNoue’s creation will be as appealing to the eyes as Anderson’s menu is to the taste buds.

The Secret Kitchen is quickly putting this historic country crossroads back on the map.

By combining her passion for fresh local ingredients with a breadth of eatable knowledge that spans a lifetime of travel and cooking, Anderson further bolsters Petaluma’s reputation for diverse, healthy and flavorful cuisine.

(Contact Houston Porter at argus@arguscourier.com)