One year with Petaluma Gap and the wind-swept wines

As the Petaluma Gap moves into the second year since its hard won approval, wineries and consumers alike are seeking out the grapes and wines that are truly unique to Petaluma.

American Viticultural Areas (AVA) are approved by the federal government, based on legitimate boundaries, a locally or nationally recognized name and, most importantly, evidence that growing conditions, from climate to soil to elevation, are distinct enough to differentiate it from surrounding areas. These are critical to understanding the growing conditions that influence the aromas and flavors of area wines.

AVAs are not taken lightly, nor are they easily carved out from larger wine production regions, like the Sonoma Coast AVA, which used to encompass Petaluma’s wineries. Securing an independent AVA took countless hours of hard work both by those who filed the petition and those behind the Petaluma Gap Winegrowers Alliance (PGWA). Some of the pivotal names tied to both groups included Paul Clary (Clary Ranch), Don Baumhefner (Copeland Creek), Mike Ridgeway (Ridgeway Family Vineyard), Ana Keller (Keller Estates), Doug Cover (PGWA) and Timo Ravetti (local Realtor and winemaker), just to name a few.

AVAs represent more than just geographic areas of grape production. The area must have unique growing characteristics. The wind gap in the coastal mountain range makes Petaluma’s climate quite different from even our closets neighbors of Cotati or Novato. This gap allows the winds from the ocean to whip our grapes, causing them to build up thicker skins. This breeze, as well as the cooling fog, allows the sugars to develop more slowly and evenly, as opposed to their warm weather cousins.

The PGWA not only established a community where growers could share their experiences and ideas, but also helped educate winemakers and consumers through seminars and special events. Another pivotal component of the PGWA, and one that mirrors Petalumans’ natural inclusiveness, is that membership is open to the public, not just producers. PGWA bolstered support at a grassroots level, with the end goal being a Petaluma AVA.

The groundwork started well ahead of the February 2015 AVA application, and was quite costly. Most of the local growers and PGWA members contributed to the cause, with major financial backing coming from Keller Estate, Jackson Family Wines and Sangiacomo Family Vineyards. It would take almost three years before the Petaluma Gap AVA gained approval.

A distinct AVA is important to local growers and producers because it makes products more easily recognized by customers. Just like Carneros, Anderson Valley and the Russian River Valley, the Petaluma Gap AVA will help highlight the specific flavors unique to our growing conditions.

Although Petaluma has been host to a robust wine industry resurgence over the past two decades, it was not until the Gap AVA was approved that these businesses could start labeling their wines as such. Over the past year, wineries such as Keller Estate, Adobe Road, Guarachi, Bruliam, Kendric, Ramey, Dutton Goldfield, Fogline, Azari, Karah, McEvoy Ranch, Model Vineyards and even powerhouses like DeLoach and Kendal Jackson, have started setting themselves apart by marking their wines with the Gap designation.

“They see it as a differentiating asset,” says Ana Keller of Keller Estate. “Slowly but surely the personality of the windy Gap is coming across in our wines. Now that other people see value in our grapes I am seeing more and more local people value our wines too, and actually search them out. Before, they didn’t understand why our wines were priced at the same level as a Sonoma Coast, or Russian River. I think that now, our community values the wines more.”

According to Keller, the most popular Gap varietals are chardonnay and pinot noir. “The chardonnay benefits from the great acid that is developed in our area,” she says. “And the wind aids our pinots by thickening their skins, which is where the flavors and tannins are. Syrah is the dark horse - the Gap makes amazing cool climate syrahs.”

Model Farm co-owner Sean Castorani adds, “We couldn’t agree more that syrah in Petaluma is really special. We purchased some syrah fruit from Keller this year and are thrilled with the wines development. We feel it has the ability to outshine pinot noir and chardonnay in the region.”

In a twist of kismet, Model Farm had just approved Sonoma Coast AVA labels for its 2016 syrah on the same day that the Petaluma Gap became an AVA. Model scrambled to stop the presses and update the label with the more accurate Petaluma Gap AVA. “We are excited for our wines to play a part in defining the profile of Petaluma Gap syrah and raising awareness of why our area is so unique,” says Castorani.

“As a syrah producer in the Gap AVA, I want to help educate consumers that the common thread that connects our wines is their rustic elegance and acidity,” he adds. “Our wines will be classically styled and influenced by the cool climate aromatic, peppery, and bright. The more producers that choose to label under our AVA and distinguish the wines from the broader Sonoma Coast, the better solidified these expectations will be.”

“Petaluma Gap AVA is like none other; its persistent wind, rolling fog and hardworking farmers are what set this region apart,” says Garret Martin, winemaker for Adobe Road Winery, which currently labels three Gap wines – Sangiacomo’s Roberts Road pinot noir, Fedrick Vineyard syrah and Lichau Hill cabernet, grown at 1,600 feet, which usually above the fog line.

Byron Kosuge, McEvoy Ranch’s winemaker, adds, “I’ve worked with fruit from all over the Sonoma Coast and can affirm that the wines from the Gap are distinctive and special. Ultimately though, the proof of the quality of the fruit we get from the Gap is in the accolades and awards we’ve received, and the support we have enjoyed from many local restaurants, retailers and wine drinkers.”

At present, only Barber Cellars and Adobe Road have downtown tasting rooms. Adobe plans to open a new facility with a tasting room, banquet hall and kitchen facilities along the west side of the river, with a view of the D Street draw bridge.

“The Petaluma Gap produces beautifully balanced wines that are smooth, silky and voluptuous,” says Cheryl Quist, executive director of the Petaluma Gap Winegrowers Alliance. “And our wines have earned the accolades to prove it, with more than half of our winemakers proudly finding themselves in the ‘90-point club,’ which means they have garnered 90 points and above.”