In Petaluma, pinot noir is king

The varietal, which thrives in cooler climates, does well in the Petaluma GAP.|

Let’s begin by getting reacquainted with an old friend - pinot noir. As the main varietal growing in the Petaluma GAP, I want to clarify and confirm, introduce and illustrate the grape that is most important to our local wine industry.

Not to discount the chardonnay and syrah - and a few other obscure varietals grown here - but pinot noir is king in the GAP, and it is important that we understand this vine that is stretching its deep roots into the rich ground we walk upon.

The GAP - Grower’s Alliance of Petaluma - is our little, unique growing region. Some outstanding examples of locally produced pinot noir include Keller Estates, Hart’s Desire Rockin H Ranch and Radio Coteau La Neblina, to name a few.

Pinot noir was first cultivated in Burgundy, France in the 1st century. Several testaments indicate it was brought in by invading tribes from Italy and Germany. Others maintain it was already there to be found when they arrived. Ultimately, it wound up in the hands of the Catholic Church and has been coveted ever since.

Today, we find outstanding production of this wonderful varietal to the north in Oregon and Canada, some decent production in South America, and some of the best in the world in New Zealand. In California, as in any other country, the grape thrives near water that significantly cools down in the evening. This is essential for proper development of pinot noir fruit.

On the central coast of California, there is some exquisite production. To our north, in the Russian River, Mendocino County and the Green Valley, there are some phenomenal wines being produced. Like Carneros wines? Yes, I agree, there are good pinots there, too.

However, my favorite region of them all is the Petaluma GAP. Sure, it is my home, and sure, I know all the winemakers - I used to race motorcycles and ride horses where there are now grapes in these vineyards.

However, our pinot, from our brand new AVA, is world class and is consistently garnering high scores from Wine Spectator and wine critic Robert Parker’s rankings. You should be very excited about the pinot noir we have in our little corner of wine country. It really is that good.

When pinot noir first arrived in California in the late 19th century, it found its home in Mendocino County and along the North Coast.

Today, growers are racing to have the great fortune of planting pinot noir in the Petaluma GAP. The cooling in the evening and reliable wind that comes in from the Pacific Ocean renders this region, with Petaluma at its heart, ideal for growing a grape that, at times, can be very difficult to work with.

When it’s done right, it is hard not to relish the outstanding wine that is produced here. Longer days of cooling through the course of the year means longer maturation on the vine. This brings exotic and deeper characteristics ranging from deep berry and violet to warmed currants and black mountain raspberry, all while maintaining very low alcohol levels.

Any wine expert must recognize the quality of the wine produced here, the need for limited manipulation to create an incredible flavor profile, and our distinct similarities to the greatest pinot noir region in the world - Burgundy - where it all started.

Pair pinot noir with chicken, duck and salmon. It’s a good wine to serve with your Thanksgiving turkey, and it also pairs splendidly with a raspberry cheesecake.

(Jason Jenkins is the owner of Vine and Barrel in Petaluma. Contact him at jason@vineandbarrel.com.)

UPDATED: Please read and follow our commenting policy:
  • This is a family newspaper, please use a kind and respectful tone.
  • No profanity, hate speech or personal attacks. No off-topic remarks.
  • No disinformation about current events.
  • We will remove any comments — or commenters — that do not follow this commenting policy.