Pho Sonoma spices up Petaluma’s Theatre Square

With 20 varieties of pho, a dozen vegetarian options plus incredible desserts|

Some restaurants are very much more than their names would indicate, and that is definitely the case with newcomer to Petaluma, Pho Sonoma. Most diners know pho (pronounced fuh) as a hearty soup bowl of rich meat broth with rice noodles and a variety of options for meat additions and salad-like garnishes such as bean sprouts, mint, basil and pickled vegetables.

Pho Sonoma serves much more than its namesake soup bowls. All of the dishes, soup or otherwise, that we tried were delicious. However, it was the desserts that astonished us the most. Because we love the phrase, “Life is too uncertain; eat dessert first,” we’ll start with the sweets.

Xuan (Song) Nguyen, wife and co-owner with Cang Nguyen created the desserts offered at Pho Sonoma. She shared with me her thought that rarely does one find good desserts in Asian restaurants, so she set out to rectify that, and she did so ably. She said she wanted desserts she could be proud of, as well as ones that would represent the flavors of her home country of Vietnam.

We tried three of them, and each one excellent. The coconut crème brulée was a perfect combination of coconut milk and cow’s milk to provide just the right texture while incorporating the coconut flavor. The burnt sugar topping was just the right thickness and texture.

The banana fritters were a surprise because instead of being dipped in a fritter batter, the bananas were wrapped in spring roll wrappers and fried up crispy. They were served with two scoops of vanilla ice cream, a cool counterpoint to the hot fritters.

Then there was the classic sticky sweet rice with mango and chopped peanuts. First, water is boiled with the traditional herb, la cam. Then, a special kind of rice is soaked overnight in that water, giving it a rich purple color without any food coloring. The rice is then topped with a coconut sauce. Set against the rice the bright yellow mango and chopped peanuts added perfect sweet, tart and crunchy flavors and textures to round out this yummy combination. The desserts were priced from $5.95 to $6.95.

Now back to the beginning for the items we tried as starters - the shrimp spring rolls ($6.50) were perfect for a hot summer day, with chilled rice noodles, cooked shrimp and crisp vegetables and herbs bundled in a soft rice paper wrapper, served with tangy peanut sauce.

The crispy Vietnamese egg roll ($6.50) made of shredded chicken breast and vegetables came with spicy chili sauce. The salt and pepper chicken wings ($10) were a favorite of everyone at our table; they were light and delicious with a lemony sauce served alongside for dipping.

Oddly listed in the appetizer section, the banh mi sandwich ($5.95) was delicious both times it was ordered. A toasted and lightly buttered French baguette is filled with your choice of grilled pork, chicken or beef, pickled carrots, jalapenos and cilantro. It is so good, I wanted to stop right there and just order another one of those for myself. The beef was my favorite so far. This would make an awesome sandwich to order as pickup for a delicious picnic-style lunch.

Of course, no visit to Pho Sonoma would be complete without some pho, and there are so many kinds to choose from - the menu lists 20 different varieties, each available as regular ($10) and large ($12) with a few items that can be added for an extra charge. We tried the rare flank steak and well-done brisket on one visit and the combination in the deeply flavored beef broth was spot on.

Another specialty of many Vietnamese restaurants is bun (pronounced with a long u sound), a vermicelli dish that comes with lots of fresh raw vegetables and a sweetened fish sauce dressing, with your choice of meat. We had the barbecue pork ($12) which was so delicious, we were tempted to order it again on our second visit, but resisted to try more of the menu.

One of the most surprisingly delicious dishes was the house special, a clay pot rice ($14) listed on the menu as V12, and described as super hot and crispy rice topped with mix steamed veggies and tofu served in a clay pot. What makes this dish so delectable is the crispy rice, which is made by super heating the clay pot with cooked rice inside. By coming in contact with that really hot pot, the rice develops a crispy crust. The vegetables in a delicious sauce with the pieces of fried tofu gilded the lily of that toothsome rice. If you are not a vegetarian, the dish also comes with a choice of shrimp, chicken or beef.

Speaking of vegetarian menu items, there are at least 12 different items in that section of the menu, so if meat is not your thing, you should find plenty of options at Pho Sonoma.

We also tried the posted daily special, a Vietnamese pancake that included an eggy and crisp-edged crepe filled with shrimp and vegetables. This is a dish that we hope will make it on to the regular menu, as it is an excellent version.

Then there was the special rice plate with barbecue pork ($12) and the house special birds nest crispy egg noodles with beef, chicken, calamari, prawns and vegetable in a oyster-tomato sauce ($15) - an amazing value.

For beverages there is a brief selection of beer, a very short menu of wines and a large selection of non-alcoholic beverages, many of which are specialties of Vietnam including shakes with tapioca (known also as Boba milk teas in a variety of flavors), and Vietnamese hot and iced coffee with condensed milk, and fresh young coconut juice.

Both times we went the service was excellent, both friendly and efficient. The owners have lots of prior experience in the restaurant business and it shows. Best of all they are sweet people who want you to be happy and to enjoy your meal. They fit in well with the kind of owner-operated restaurateurs that make Petaluma popular.

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