Fresh from the farmers market, sweet corn, Thomcord grapes, kumquats and patty pan squash

If you’re into spaceship-shaped squashes and tiny citrus, click here|

As I get ready to write this column every two weeks, it seems there is another reason for me to get excited about one of my favorite items reappearing in the markets. This time that item is Thomcord grapes. If you don’t already know them, this is a grape that is a cross between Thompson seedless and Concord grapes.

So why bother, why not just eat one or the other?

Concord grapes are the ones commonly associated with jelly or juice. While good for pressing or canning, they are not great table grapes because of their seeds and nearly inedible skins. By crossing these two grapes, the fruit becomes seedless with edible skins while maintaining that intense flavor of the Concord grape.

I have only on very rare occasion ever found the Thomcords in the grocery stores, so they are yet another reason to go to the farmers markets because you can indeed get them there. They are very sweet, easy to eat and totally delicious. Do not miss their short growing season.

Sweet Corn

Our local sweet corn is in the farmers markets now. The ones I bought were large yet very sweet and so fresh, the quintessential summer vegetable. If you, like me, know that certain vegetables are simply better when they are in season and local, you will be looking for corn this month.

I recently read an article in a cooking magazine that really tests recipes and corn preparation methods. I learned that corn is best cooked in a very simple manner, by bringing a large pot of water to the boil, and then adding the shucked corn on the cob, covering the pan and turning it off and just letting it sit for 15 minutes or so. They tested some of the common (and as it turns out misconceptions) tips for cooking corn, so don’t bother to add anything to the water because they corn cannot absorb any of those additives like butter, sugar, salt or milk. Give it a nice rest in what was boiled water, and then pull it out and slather on the butter and salt.

If you prefer your corn cooked on the grill, there is a way to make sure it comes out perfect. Cut the tassels off the top, and peel only some of the husks off the corn, leaving two layers still attached. Grill directly on the barbecue, and turn often. The two layers of husk will protect the corn until the final moments when it will leave those delicious golden brown grill marks. At that point remove it from the grill, and using rubber kitchen gloves finish husking it.

If you don’t have one of the cool gadgets for buttering corn, I will share with you my husband’s trick. Take a piece of bread or a roll that you are going to butter and eat anyway, slap on a slab of butter and then use the butter-on-bread to butter your corn on the cob. You get total control, and it also warms up the butter to make it easier to spread.

Kumquats

While conventional wisdom says citrus is in season in what we consider the winter months here, when I was at the Eastside farmers market this week one of the local vendors who mostly sells local honey also had fresh kumquats on the branch. I love kumquats, so I had to buy some and they were just perfect. If you cannot find any be sure to save this article for inspiration when December rolls around.

A kumquat looks like a tiny oblong orange, about the size of the end of one of your fingers. The entire fruit is edible including the skin, and the center of the fruit is both sweet and tart. Look for fruits that are all orange, as the ones that are still green are not yet ripe. Kumquats, like all citrus, should feel heavy for their size.

My favorite way to eat them is to slice them thinly and add them to a salad, especially one that features avocado and/or shrimp.

Kumquats make a lovely quick chutney when chopped up and cooked with shallots, salt, black pepper and if you like it, some star anise. Just add enough water to cook it without burning. Try this tart topping on roast pork or duck.

You can also turn them into a beautiful marmalade, or preserve them as you would a lemon. The slightly bitter, sweet-tart flavor is a great accompaniment to many dishes.

If you like darling garnishes for things like specialty cocktails, tartines or desserts, thinly slice the kumquats and process in your dehydrator.

Patty pan squash

The summer squash season is in full bloom, and while many people are familiar with zucchini, and even crookneck squash, some cooks have never tried patty pan squash. This is a variety that I particularly like, as I feel the flesh is finer in these uniquely shaped soft-skinned squash that look like miniature flying saucers.

Try them sliced and roasted or grilled, or for a really special dinner, partially hollow them out and add a stuffing of your choice (I like ground lamb browned with onion and garlic and finished with chopped fresh tomatoes, cinnamon and salt and pepper) and then bake them at about 350 degrees to cook the squash and meld the flavors together. They can be topped with freshly grated Parmesan cheese before serving.

Remember if you want specific recipes for any of these items, simply email me at JuliLederhaus@gmail.com and I will send you some of my favorites.

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