Petaluma Around the Clock: Tents, trucks, produce at Petaluma farmers market

“We’ve got fish! We’ve got Revolution bread! We’ve got Heather’s meats, and Golden State pickles and a lot of vegetables, and we’re going to have coffee soon!” says Kelly Smith, gesturing to an array of white awnings going up in the parking lot at Lucchesi Park. “So,” she smiles, “we are definitely going to have a market today, with a lot of good stuff, rain or no rain!”

It’s 9:05 a.m., on a Tuesday morning, and a soft mist is gently falling over Lucchesi Park. With less than an hour till the Eastside Petaluma Farmer’s Market is set to open, market manager Smith is amiably improvising, organizing for what will be a slightly smaller market than usual. Though several of the regular vendors have already arrived - some showing up as early as 8 a.m. - and have put up their awnings and begun arranging their displays of frozen fish or fresh loaves of bread, Smith says there are a few others who’ve called in to say they’re staying home.

“We’re a rain-or-shine organization,” Smith says, “but there are always a few vendors who don’t want to set up in the rain. I get it. It happens. I’ve been doing this long enough, - organizing farmer’s markets for eight years, and working them as a vendor for twenty years - and I always have ways to move things around and make it all work.”

Smith briefly turns her attention to the coffee vendor’s truck, now rolling in to find out where to set up. Smith points down to the end of the row, near the vegetable stands, where the coffee truck will basically constitute the end of a cul-de-sac.

“At this point in the morning, around an hour before opening,” explains Smith, “the trucks are all arriving, I’m showing them where to set up if they’re a new vendor, and if they’re a regular and I’ve moved them for some reason, I’ll show them where they are going. People are doing their thing, chatting with each other, networking and hanging out, enjoying each other’s company. This is always a really nice, fun time at the market. The calm before the crowds.”

“I love the hour before market opens, because I get to catch up with my friend Ruby after a whole week,” laughs Samantha Paone, at work getting the Golden State Pickle Works stand ready, moving items from her vehicle to the table. Directly next to the pickle stand - within very easy chatting distance - is the Revolution Bakery stand, on which loaves of bread are now being arranged by Ruby Edwards, who says, “There’s a lot of work to be done, setting up. And I make deliveries on my way here, so I tend to start early on market days.”

In anticipation of wind along with the rain, both vendors have used bungee cords to fasten their awnings to their cars, and even to each other’s tables.

“We have each other’s backs, we market people,” says Paone.

“All we need now,” jokes Edwards, “is for someone to come by and give us some coffee and breakfast, and we’ll be set!”

Smith stops by to check in on the set-up, before moving back out to chat with another incoming vehicle. Assisting Smith - who, as a sometime vendor, operates Rubber Ducky Soap - is A.J. Scholp, who sets up tables and shows vendors their spaces, but also operates the Red Bird Bakery stand at the Market.

“Hey Kelly, do we have a broom?” asks Scholp, whose responsibilities at the Market include putting on a Santa suit at Christmas time. “I have to grow my whiskers in for that one,” he points out.

It’s now about 8:35 a.m., with less than a half-hour before opening, and the volume level has risen as more trucks and cars arrive to set up. Kathleen Walker is almost done setting up her Swan Haven Soap table, with an array of scented soaps and candles.

“I load up the car the night before market day,” she says, “so I can just roll out in the morning and come here to get started. The market runs till 1:30, so it’s a long day. Most of us do that, getting as much ready the night before so we can shorten our days a little. But once the shoppers arrive, time just flies.”

That’s certainly true of set-up time.

By 9:55 a.m., as a few early arrivals begin perusing the wares of the vendors - some of whom are still putting the finishing touches in place - what was a half empty parking lot just an hour ago is now crammed with color, banners, tables, signs - and people. The rain has even stopped, allowing a few rays of sunshine.

Heather Lawton, of Heather’s Custom Meats, has just finished setting up, and is ready for customers.

“I don’t think the rain will scare away very many people,” Lawton says. “Markets are kind of fun in the rain, anyway. It’s a lifestyle thing, for the vendors and the customers. There’s a little more adventure to a farmer’s market than just going to a grocery store.”

Back at the other end, Smith is ready too, standing ready at the Market information table.

“And … it’s ten o’clock!” she announces. “The market is open! And in just three-and-a-half hours, we’ll start breaking everything down.” She looks up at the sky, wondering if the drizzle will return before the market ends. “And then we’ll be back next week to do it all over again, every Tuesday, all year round. Rain or shine.”