Unusual spring brews brings new beer flavors to Petaluma

Just when we were getting weary of our stockpile beer supply, last week, Petaluma’s Stockhome restaurant (220 Western Ave.) introduced us to a few hard-to-find foreign beers, perrys and ciders, available in takeaway cans and bottles.

The uniquely blueberry-flavored motor oil of an imperial stout comes from Denmark’s microbrewery, To Øl. This 16-ounce can of “Maelk Shake” comes with a high price tag, but the opportunity to try a dessert-like import brewed with lactose is hard to pass up. Instead of a pricey trip overseas to explore the Danish beer scene, Maelk Shake is a divine and roasty diversion that pairs deliciously with Stockhome’s Swedish pancakes.

Stockhome’s connection to Scandinavian distributors allows them to carry a number of imports that are hard to find, including Marmelade, a fruit-forward brett beer from Denmark available in 16-ounce cans; Red Cap, a whiskey barrel-aged Wee Heavy (the stouter cousin to Scottish ale) from Danish brewer Amager; and ciders like Rekorderlig, a candy-sweet pear cider (perry) from Sweden, as well as a few Einstok Icelandic ales. We also loved the locally produced Tag + Jug, a San Francisco-based cidery that makes a light and effervescent brut cider with Sonoma County apples.

On the lighter side, most Americans rarely get to try a beer with only 2.2% alcohol by volume. The Picnic Sour Ale from Sweden’s Brekeriet Beer complements fish and spicy meals well, with light fruit and rhubarb flavors, and a lingering crisp finish. This is the kind of refreshing patio beer that supports a really great meal without overwhelming the palate or the stomach. Sour ales are fermented with Lactobacillus, Pediococcus, Brettanomyces or acetic acid, usually wild occurring bacteria strains. These welcome brewing bacteria contribute lactic acid to a beer’s taste and finish. The Picnic Sour is laced with a bright lemon citrus note that encourages another drink. Brekeriet, a small family brewery out of Landskrona, Sweden, is known for its wild fermented and barrel-conditioned beverages, and makes beer only with wild yeast and bacteria, using fruit in secondary fermentation. This one is a rare treat, available in 11.2-ounce bottles at Stockhome.

Sour beverages like gose and Berliner Weisse are wonderful to quench thirst as the weather warms up, or to pair with an outdoor grilled meal or salad. Even the Romans preferred a sour beverage called “posca” over water to beat the heat. Known as the “Roman Gatorade,” posca (the name may have hailed from the Greek word epoxos or “very sharp”) was used by Roman armies to fortify soldiers during battle. While the recipe is not recorded, the drink likely featured a little acid from red wine vinegar and water, though some cultures add salt, spices and perhaps some honey. Fermented beverages slake thirst, but also the high acidity and alcohol killed off unwanted bacteria, making posca a better alternative to sometimes questionable water sources. Likewise, sour beers use wild fermentation to accentuate the crisp finish and fruity essence of lighter beers, making them hearty and refreshing year round.

You can also get your sour on at HenHouse’s Palace of Barrels in Petaluma, the go-to for fermented and barrel-aged specialties from our local brewer. This week, we are especially excited about this packaged pairing from HenHouse: HenHouse Pilsner, Juiced Raspberry Gose and HenHouse’s latest foray into the malt zone: Pocket Change, a Scottish-style ale. This darker ale is a small sidestep from HenHouse’s single hop lineup. Pocket Change is heavy on the caramel and biscuit malt, and light on the hops. Scottish ales that highlight malt over bitterness are often dark and roasty. HenHouse produces this highly carbonated version with toasty flavors and lighter alcohol (4.2% alcohol by volume) in time for a spring break.

Moving toward the heavier end of the spectrum, HenHouse also pairs up with Seismic (Santa Rosa) for its first pastry stout collaboration, Project Azorian, a Mexican hot chocolate-inspired powerhouse of dark beer. Trendy pastry stouts embrace the solid dark beer foundation by adding lactose for deep creaminess and substantial dessert feel. This beer explores spice with cacao nibs, cinnamon, nutmeg, cardamom, vanilla beans, sea salt and three chili peppers. You may have to save Project Azorian for a crisp spring evening rather than an all-day beer. At 10.5% alcohol by volume, this is one to try with a light meal, or in a small mug.